New Vs 2nd Hand

While this option can be risky, most people prefer to take the risk with their first kart purchase rather than to outlay for a new kart. While I understand this can result in some savings, those savings can quickly disappear if you make the wrong choice and can mean the difference between a pleasant karting experience and a nightmare. These days if I want to purchase something I always start by researching new prices then work back from there. Quite often the difference does not justify the risk, but just in case your not convinced then what should you look for ?

The most expensive repairs will come from the engine department so you have to be confident this is in good condition. First check if its got good compression by turning the engine over by rotating the rear wheel. An engine that is sealing well in the top end will be quite difficult to turn over and should make a nice throaty sound through the pipe as the piston opens the exhaust port. If the engine offers little resistance then it needs a rebuild. More checks can include removing the head to check how much carbon build up is on the piston and combustion chamber and at the same time check piston wear and check the bore for scoring etc. If the bore is good you should still be able to see hone marks in it. If the owner objects to all this then he's hiding something. Head gaskets are cheap so offer to pay for one if they object…..its going to cost you a lot more to have it repaired. Also check the bottom end for wear by removing the finger guard surrounding the engine sprocket. Grab the end of the crankshaft and try moving it up & down. Any movement indicates crankshaft bearing wear and more importantly how much attention was payed to the bottom end at the last rebuild. Movement in & out is OK. Check the external condition of the engine checking for broken cooling fins (especially around the exhaust flange). I also have a rule now where I don't buy anything unless I can hear it run, so ask if the owner will at least start it for you or better still a test drive.

Next have a good look at the chassis starting with the rear axle and its components. Remove the spark plug and rotate the axle checking for any runout at the outer edge of the wheel rim. At the same time check the runout on the rear brake disc and the rear sprocket. A bent wheel rim or sprocket can be replaced without spending too much, but a bent axle or badly damaged brake disc can cost a couple of hundred dollars to replace. Also check for any cracks in the axle. These will usually start at the end of the keyways, particularly at the brake disc or sprocket hub.

More on this topic will be coming soon so keep coming back for more info.